June 18, at pm June 19, at pm Jim T. January 3, at pm January 4, at am Phthalo blue is standard industrial blue, stable, and more brilliant pigment. January 4, at pm Patrick1 Default. Color is the most important element in painting - except for everything else. January 5, at am January 7, at am Thanks for good advice. January 8, at pm Yellow Ogre Default. Gigalot — thanks for expert info.
I only paint that way". January 9, at pm But several beautiful pigments are for acrylic only, not for OIL which pigments dont work with oil but acryl? For example, Paynes Grey was developed by William Payne years ago as a more subtle mixing colour than pure black, which can kill other colours dead if used too liberally.
Neither one is better than the other. It all comes down to personal choice and what you want to use it for. So is there anything you can do to make things a little more predictable? Actually, there is light at the end of the tunnel. It's called P Numbers Side note: bear with me for this section - it sounds all a bit complicated at first but it leads to a very simple and practical conclusion The P or pigment number is found on the tubes of all decent quality paints.
It's a system that has been around since when it was recognised that there was a need for a consistent and dependable means of categorising pigments for use in the paint and dyeing industries. Each pigment is given a unique number, sub-divided for clarity by the addition of another letter to denote a colour.
If so, then you may be close to finding an alternative. Bear in mind though that many colours are blended from more than one pigment, so will have two or more P numbers. Now you need to be a subscriber to the two Society's sites to access the full lists and to be honest, unless you are a chemist, the amount of detailed information would probably be overwhelming.
The illustration below is typical of the labelling found on paints. You can see the P number on the label just above the barcode on the left. In this case for Cerulean Blue, it's PB Alongside each photo are the P Numbers taken from their technical specification. You can see that each one is slightly different, reflecting the varying combination of materials in each version, even though they're all oil paints.
In addition, the binder used in each one is slightly different to optimise the performance of each one. Here are links to some of the relevant pages of three of the many manufacturers, to get you started. Acrylic Painting Materials Made Easy Walk into any art store and the amount of materials filling the shelves is overwhelming! Bob Davies has put together a shortlist of the best acrylic colours, surfaces and brushes for every budding artist to stop you from wasting time and money This is great explanation!
Your post add so much to this! If its the correct pigment, so that might help you as well. You are welcome. Is this working also to the brands? Should these numbers also be the same on different brands? This is so cool! Thank you for your time and additional explanation. P stands for Pigment; w for White; y for yellow, b for blue; Br for brown; bk for black, v for violet …… You are welcome, glad this helps!!
Wonderful post, so helpful. I love your painting Naples Sky! Thank you, very much! I like it when you include all these tutorials, it is like unwrapping little presents. I am trying to digest these slowly, so much to absorb and to learn from. Thank you! How would you compare Prussian Blue to Phathlo Blue? PB has been a staple on my palette but lately have been experimenting with simple triads, one recommended with Phathlo blue.
In the past I never used PB because of its overpowering staining quality. I prefer prussian blue for most of my work. Not all, but most. I just used Prussian blue with burnt umber in acrylics, and got a very rich, deep, cold black and grays.
I just checked all four of my watercolor sets and not one of them has a Prussian Blue in it! I will have to try it! I still have 3 spots open in my Sennelier tin box. I know the recipes will come in handy! Although there are a number of expensive oil-based mediums on the market right now, many people simply use some regular lintseed oil as their medium at a fraction of the cost. One of the main issues with making your own Prussian blue oil paint is that you have to ensure that your pigment is as fine as possible and this is one of the main issues with homemade pigments made how we explained above.
This is why we tend to recommend that you either use a commercial pigment or simply go with a high-quality Purssian blue oil paint as it tends to be cheaper and easier. Making your own Prussian blue watercolor paint is probably the hardest option as you need to get your Prussian blue pigment to set in something like gum Arabic correctly and this is considerably more difficult than most people think. There are extensive guides online going over how you are able to do this but it does tend to be too difficult for the majority of people who want a quick and easy paint that will deliver good results.
In our opinion, just going with a high-quality watercolor paint in Prussian blue will always be a better option for your. It is much easier and cheaper when it comes to making your own watercolor paint and will almost always produce much better results once dry than a homemade variant. You are able to use the color combinations covered above going over how you can mix a number of colors to make Prussian blue with some of your existing watercolors and this too is probably a better option than trying to make your own from scratch.
Although you are able to make your own homemade Prussian blue ink, unless you only want to use it for dip pens or calligraphy, we tend to recommend against it due to the time, effort, and costs to produce a mediocre product.
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